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Who's to Judge?

newyorker.com · 6,283 words · saved by 1 readers

How a guide that began as a stunt became a mighty arbiter of fine food.

Save this story Save this story “I have friends who are smart, interesting guys who lose their shit over getting No. 1,” the chef David Chang said. Illustration by Brian Rea In the colonnaded courtyard of the Antiguo Colegio de San Ildefonso, a former Jesuit boarding school in Mexico City, under a grove of magnolia trees hung with punched-tin stars, more than five hundred people had gathered to learn which restaurants would be proclaimed the fifty best in Latin America. The party was meant to be attended with a drink in one hand, a phone in the other. There were a multitude of bars: wine by Ro

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