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Why David Chang Matters - The New York Times

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Diners who look for his stamp in every Momofuku restaurant may be missing his rare achievement as an impresario who lets his chefs innovate. The restaurateur David Chang at Momofuku Ko, in New York. Credit... George Etheredge for The New York Times Supported by Send any friend a story As a subscriber, you have 10 gift articles to give each month. Anyone can read what you share. By Pete Wells TORONTO — With the possible exception of his mother, nobody would argue that people don’t talk enough about David Chang. More often than not, though, he is talked about for the wrong things. Diners and restaurant writers insist on seeing him as the inventor of every scrap of food sold under the Momofuku name, rather than as a restaurant operator who is very skilled — maybe singularly skilled — at creating the conditions other chefs need to come up with food that’s not just novel but relevant to our world. Kojin, which he opened here in June, would be completely baffling if you believed that Mr. Cha

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