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The Ketchup Conundrum | The New Yorker

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Mustard now comes in dozens of varieties. Why has ketchup stayed the same?

An artisanal upstart, a flavor scientist, and Heinz’s five-note symphony reveal why ketchup defies the gospel of endless variety. This summary is AI-generated. Learn More » August 30, 2004 Ketchup triggers, in equal measure, all five of the fundamental tastes; one food theorist calls it "the Esperanto of cuisine."Ruven Afanador Many years ago, one mustard dominated the supermarket shelves: French’s. It came in a plastic bottle. People used it on hot dogs and bologna. It was a yellow mustard, made from ground white mustard seed with turmeric and vinegar, which gave it a mild, slightly…

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