The Ketchup Conundrum | The New Yorker

Mustard now comes in dozens of varieties. Why has ketchup stayed the same?

Save this story Save this story Ketchup triggers, in equal measure, all five of the fundamental tastes; one food theorist calls it "the Esperanto of cuisine." Ruven Afanador Many years ago, one mustard dominated the supermarket shelves: French’s. It came in a plastic bottle. People used it on hot dogs and bologna. It was a yellow mustard, made from ground white mustard seed with turmeric and vinegar, which gave it a mild, slightly metallic taste. If you looked hard in the grocery store, you might find something in the specialty-foods section called Grey Poupon, which was Dijon mustard, made fr

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• Esther Ng

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