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What Rene Redzepi’s closure of Noma means for the future of fine dining - Vox

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It’s been a bad century for what we used to call high culture. Even before a dramatic pandemic-driven drop in attendance for live theater, opera, symphonies, dance, and art exhibitions, the percentage of Americans who were taking in live cultural events over the past two decades had been dwindling. Classical music sales have been in a long-term slide, orchestras have been closing around the country, masters of fine arts programs are declining, book review sections are shrinking, and poetry, according to the New York Times, has apparently been dead for 100 years. But there’s one exception: high-end dining. The past 20 years have witnessed a supernova of haute cuisine, an explosion of tasting menus and chef’s tables. The best restaurants have gone from the background to the foreground of the cosmopolitan experience, becoming travel destinations in their own right. Top chefs — and yes, I know the reference — are more than mere celebrities; they’re cultural figures. It’s as though we took

Future Perfect Noma’s closing exposes the contradictions of fine dining Noma, no more. by Bryan Walsh Jan 14, 2023, 12:00 PM UTC Rene Redzepi, chef and co-owner of the world-class Danish restaurant Noma, in Copenhagen, Denmark, on May 31, 2021. Redzepi recently announced he would close the restaurant at the end of 2024. | Thibault Savary/AFP via Getty Images Future Perfect Noma’s closing exposes the contradictions of fine dining Noma, no more. by Bryan Walsh Jan 14, 2023, 12:00 PM UTC Bryan Walsh is a senior editorial director at Vox, covering AI and other subjects for the Future Perfect secti

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