everything as advertisement - Oyster Fans: Redux

the curse of the lifestyle brand

I am recommended by acquaintance and stranger alike to avoid the Gentle Monster cafe while in Seoul. “It’s nasty,” a friend informs me over lunch. The much-hyped cafe, which shares an owner and trendy Apgujeong flagship with the accessory brand, hosts an arrangement of desserts that push the allowance on what we may call a pastry in our contemporary age. Anyone with an interest in fine dining would immediately recognize the influence, pulled from copies of copies, lifted a million times over from the likes of El Bulli, Noma, Jungsik. Gastronomy meets pastry. The technique of the genre (aka…

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• Camille Nibungco

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