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Restaurant Review: Kelang | The New Yorker

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Kelang, in Greenpoint, offers a modern, wide-ranging definition of culinary authenticity.

Save this story Save this story You’re reading the Food Scene newsletter, Helen Rosner’s guide to what, where, and how to eat. Sign up to receive it in your inbox. The best thing on the menu at Kelang, a Malaysian restaurant in Greenpoint that opened in December, is a puffy paratha on a bed of spiced red-lentil dal, topped with creamy Italian stracciatella cheese. Depending on who you are, where you’re from, and how rigid you are in your notions of gastronomic interpolation, this will strike you as either an absurd concept or a brilliant one. Kelang is part of a new crop of restaurants that ce

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