The Story of Multicultural Canada, Told in Humble Strip Mall Eateries - The New York Times

Some of Toronto’s best dining options are mom-and-pop shops little known beyond their immigrant patrons, offering dishes that recall tastes from home or fuse new flavors together. Curry laksa at One2Snacks, a Malaysian takeout restaurant in the Dynasty Centre, a strip mall in Toronto. Credit... Tara Walton for The New York Times Supported by By Norimitsu Onishi SCARBOROUGH, Ontario — At a tiny strip mall where the painted parking lines had faded completely some time ago, the chef at the New Kalyani restaurant effortlessly prepared one of the most exquisite treats in the Toronto area. Pouring fermented batter into a small wok, he gripped the pan with both hands and swirled it four times in the air before laying it on a portable gas-burner. Made to order, the resulting hopper, a classic Sri Lankan dish, appeared — a thin, lacy, bowl-shaped pancake that rose from a pillowy bottom to its delicately crispy edges. “Most people don’t know he makes hoppers to order,” said Suresh Doss, a food w

Some of Toronto’s best dining options are mom-and-pop shops little known beyond their immigrant patrons, offering dishes that recall tastes from home or fuse new flavors together. Curry laksa at One2Snacks, a Malaysian takeout restaurant in the Dynasty Centre, a strip mall in Toronto. Credit... Tara Walton for The New York Times Supported by By Norimitsu Onishi SCARBOROUGH, Ontario — At a tiny strip mall where the painted parking lines had faded completely some time ago, the chef at the New Kalyani restaurant effortlessly prepared one of the most exquisite treats in the Toronto area. Pouring f